The city is grand and ornamental. On the tree-lined Avenida de Mayo, I felt I was walking down Boulevard Haussman in Paris, complete with its art-nouveau iron works and its sumptuous literary Cafe Tortoni. To me, Buenos Aires is "Paris but with graffiti".
Highlights included the Palermo Viejo district with its unique boutiques and quaint village feel, the Latin American art at the Malba museum, the gorgeous bookshop within a stunning theatre, El Ateneo, and the winter roses of the Rosedal Gardens.
But behind the facade of the neoclassical buildings with their bold Italian French flair, there are the scars of the economic crises that strike the country every six years or so. The once elegant and famous pedestrian street, Florida, is now a mixture of tacky tourist shops and street vendors, luxury shopping mall and abandoned department stores such as (the once great) Harrods.
And if the Argentinians are upbeat about their soccer team they certainly are not about their arts and culture. Having proudly acquired tickets for the ballet at the newly refurbished Colon Theatre for our friend's birthday we were told it was "suspendido" due to the unions' strike. "Manon" will have to be for another day, another theatre, another city. But, meanwhile, Maradona is putting the smiles on everyone's faces and the optimism back into the country as they rise majestically to the challenge of the nations.








